Hittin' the waves...

On Friday morning, we left the dock in Bimini for Gun Cay. It was high time to get going with the onslaught of crazy, loud and obnoxious boaters from Miami. I have never heard the "F" word used as a noun, verb, adjective, adverb and preposition, all in the same sentence!!! One "lovely" boater kept whistling for his deck candy to come get him a drink!!! I could have found a couple of things to put in a cup for him, but alas.... young girls in need of a ride home??? They piled bean bags all over the dock, blasted their music, threw their trash all around and proceeded to get quite wasted and more obnoxious than I thought possible. Money cannot buy class, but apparently it can buy a slip at a marina!! With great speed... 4 knots... we pointed our bow toward Gun Cay and away from the Miami sound machine!!

When we arrived at Gun Cay, we decided to stay put on the boat and eat a simple supper of appetizers. We were planning a very early start and needed to try and get some rest.  Nice music on the stereo, a book or two and some cheese, crackers and olives made for a lovely evening. Soon the bunk was calling and off we went. Morning dawned a new day...... well actually it was Ray's flashlight shining in my face at 3:30!!! Very few things attract a murderous thought into my mind, however, being awakened at 3:30 is among the top three!! Being awakened without coffee is in the top one!!! There was no coffee!!! How Ray is still alive is a testament to my self-control... or the fact that I cannot sail the boat and I needed him to get me to Nassau!! After that, all bets are off!!! But back to the story, we pulled the anchor and set off into the east.

Traversing the Bahama Banks is a lesson in patience to say the least! On a motor vessel, it can be done in as little as three hours but on a sailboat, it ain’t happening quick!! Some people actually stop half way and anchor for the night…… some people would be called Ray and Kim back in 2013, but we will NEVER be called those people again!! When the winds are up and out of the east, the chop is quite substantial and very uncomfortable!!  Also, there are island freighters who cross the banks at night and they are not on the lookout for a 41 foot sailboat anchored up and bouncing around like bobble heads on a car dashboard. This is why at 3:30 am, Ray took his life in his hands and woke me up!! We actually had a pretty uneventful start to our day… night… day??? The winds were down to 6 knots and the seas were choppy but tolerable. I came up topside with my blanket and snoozed as Ray guided NuTrix toward some unforeseen mark on a chart. About two hours into our crossing, it became EVENTFUL!!! The wind increased to 15 knots and the seas kicked up to 3 feet. NuTrix punched through like a champ, but the water spray found its way all the way to the stern and us. We were able to keep up 5.5 to 6 knots because we had an outgoing tide which helped greatly!!  We went an additional 10 hours pounding through waves. It was impossible…. well not impossible, but really improbable for me to try and cook anything or even make coffee..... I know….. the horror of it all!!! We ate Bimini bread with butter, goldfish crackers, an occasional slice of cheese and out of shear desperation, a chocolate cookie!!! Crazy times call for chocolate, people!!!! Finally, we got a small reprieve when the wind lay down and the waves sprayed only around the edges of the boat! We were still making great time and came up to the Northwest Channel Light at four oclock which was 12 hours after we left…. I should amend that to read, we came upon the SITE of the NW Channel Light. The light was taken out by some big boat and has not been repaired. The metal stake is still lurking somewhere under the water, so it is best to stay clear of the GPS marking!! The water turned from a turquoise blue to a deep sapphire in a matter of minutes. Our depth readings went from 20 feet to 600 and then it wouldn’t read anymore. The Tongue of the Ocean is an enormous body of water that plunges from the Bahama Bank  into depths of 7000 feet!!! We were hoping to troll for tuna, but the rolls became quite crazy and it was too hard for Ray to work a line and hold the helm. I have become WAY more comfortable with crossing, but not enough to take the helm and kill us all….. but that’s just me!! From the light to the entrance to Chub Cay took three hours but the water was so pretty that my mind was on that instead of the length of time. I actually saw an enormous sea turtle but he dipped under the waves before I could capture a picture. I have the image put forever in my memory though. Soon, we came upon an massive rock lying directly off of Chub Cay.

It is called Momma Rhoda Rock and looks like a giant sea monster slithering along the turquoise waters, waiting for the unsuspecting sailor to cross its path.
NuTrix seemed to sigh as she glided into the anchorage off of the beach. The area is beautiful with the long sandy beach stretching up to the rocky coast. The water is so amazingly clear that the bottom looks inches below our keel but is in fact six to eight feet. Ray, as always, jumped over to set the anchor while I went to the shower and tried to wash away 15 hours of salt!! Later that night, we were so surprised and very delighted to see fireworks booming over the beach in celebration of the 4th of July!!  Here we were, in a foreign country and watching an amazing display of fireworks heralding the Independence of our country!! Probably because in the 70s, the Bahamas also won their independence from British rule so they know the pride of calling a country their own!! Regardless of the reason, it was an impressive sight with lots of ooohhhsss and ahhhhssss!!!! Ray and I had pasta with meatballs for a quick dinner and fell into a deep sleep after a long grueling day at sea…

We awoke at 9:30!!! The anchorage is quiet and not too rolly. We pulled anchor and set our sights for Fraziers Hog Cay, a mere two miles away. The waters were not too bad and I, again, stood and gazed into the beautiful sea. The coral and rocks looked like I could reach and grab ahold of them, but they lay out of reach. Ray used to sail into Fraziers Hog Cay aboard his sailboat, Breezin back in his 20s. He remarked about how little it had changed in all of the years since he sailed through the small channel. He used to visit an older gentleman by the name of Charlie Albury. Today, when we went to shore, an older man came into the small marina office and introduced himself as Don Mclearny. He knew Charlie very well and Ray was amazed that the man from his youth was still here. The two of them chatted while I tried to get pictures uploaded. 

 
The internet in the Bahamas is very slow!! I was laughing with the young lady who was manning the desk, about the time it takes to upload. I told her that in America we have come to expect everything to happen yesterday. She just smiled and I couldn’t help but think that I really needed to leave my country and find the reality of life…… not quick and over… but spending time talking with new people, looking out over the beautiful waters, fishing, sailing and making memories. Our lives have an expiration date and no matter how much money we have, what we do or where we go……. at some point in time, it is going to end. We often  put this thought away as a morbid conversation not meant to be brought up, but it is not morbid to discuss the truth. Life comes and life ends for every person and the realization of this, in my opinion, keeps us from merely existing and makes sure that we truly live!!!

This trip has been so amazing for Ray and me. I have learned to take the helm in heavy seas; I have learned to trust that just because I do not know something, Ray does. I have learned to take a breath and enjoy the moment. I sit here on my boat tonight with the breeze kicking up our American flag off of the stern and I think of what it represents….. Liberty…. which is what I am finding this summer!!! Liberty from the status quo, liberty from my fears, liberty from all that would hold me back from finding my place in this beautiful world….. I have seen so little of the Earth that I call home, but the places that I have seen are simply amazing. Everywhere I go, there are people who also call this world home and that gives us all a connection.  I take in the culture, the rhythm of the language that is English, but isn’t at the same time. There is so much to see and so much to do and I find that my time here is getting shorter and shorter. Tomorrow I will see my 47^th year come to an end….. it seems like I am still 18 with the world laid out at my feet, but here I am with so much more behind me than ahead. I have had such a charmed life and though I do not know why I have been so blessed, I will take it!!!

Tomorrow our adventure continues to Nassau. We have a seven hour crossing through the Tongue of the Ocean and though I will be nervous, I refuse to be scared!!! Ray and I press on towards more excitement. It can only get better and besides, if something is going to happen, it is going to happen out there!!!!

A Pirates Life.....

You cannot come to the Bahamas without hearing some crazy tale of buried treasure. The waters here and all down into the Caribbean are said to be filled with gold... a bounty just waiting to be discovered, to be possessed. Ray and I came to the Bahamas last Friday. We had an amazing motor/sail across the Gulf Stream.  There was barely any wind and the sea was a mysterious calm! All around, clouds hid the sun as if playing a game of cat and mouse with our sailboat. I commented a couple of times how it felt as if time itself was weaving in and out of the stream. In the cockpit, with nothing around but sea, it could be 1715, 1815, 1915 or 2015.... who was to say, as the ocean takes time as she will, pulsing back and forth with tides, pulling water along from tropical ports to icy coasts in far reaching latitudes. And we ride on her currents, believing that she will take us where we need to go, where sailors long gone from the Earth, rode her currents to the sunny shores of Bimini years before we took our first breath. It is here that I dream of treasure. Each time we snorkel or dive, I am sure that we will find a piece of the past that will cement our future. As I sit on the sailboat after a long day of swimming, walking and exploring, it hits me!!!.... I have truly found my treasure in this life. He walks with me, dives with me and explores with me. Our life together is more than a pirates booty.... it is my reality and I get to keep the pirate!!!!

The anchor dropped into Gun Cay on Friday afternoon.
My pirate donned his snorkel gear and dove into the cool and clear water to check our anchor. I watched him from the deck, looking out for a non-existent shark or barracuda. After making sure that Jaws was not anywhere near the Gun Cay lighthouse, I too jumped into the water and just like that, the long day crossing was forgotten! Ray and I showered off in the cockpit and then enjoyed the Mahi-Mahi that we caught coming across the stream. We caught two smaller fish and one large bull dolphin that weighted around 20 pounds. As one heck of a fish tale....

Ray and I were sitting in the cockpit when we heard a BAM!! We both jumped and turned around to see our rod, reel and rod holder fly off of the boat. We thought for sure that a shark was the culprit until we saw a HUGE bull dolphin (mahi mahi) jump up out of the water with the line still attached. I yelled for Ray to turn around and he just looked at me like I was crazy. "Are you diving over and chasing the fish", he asked?  Well I would have.... maybe... probably not!!! That was a 250 dollar rod and reel. I think a fisherman up on the coast of England will one day find a really nice pole floating up the beach!!! haha   But back to our dinner.  I love the grill attached to our railing.

Without heating up our galley, we can have a really nice meal!! We chowed down on our yummy catch and then cleaned up the galley. We decided to listen to music and play some scrabble, but after Ray's attempt at the words, "doller", "rully" and  "rivit" I decided it was time to hit the bunk!!
The next day we awoke to cloudy skies, but we decided to take our time before pulling the anchor and going the two hours into Bimini. I made us coffee and we sat in the cockpit watching the beautiful colors of the water turn with the dancing of the suns rays. Ray thought he heard a rumble of thunder but we weren't sure if it was just the building crew on Cat Cay. Nooooo, it was thunder!!! All at once, a storm of biblical proportion hit our little anchorage. The winds picked up to 30 knots and lightening was hitting everywhere, except thankfully, our boat!! We went below and waited out the storm which turned into a day long affair. Later that evening, the clouds parted long enough for the sun to dip into the ocean.  I never tire of the view!!! After a day of doing nothing but enjoying each other's company, we fell into a wonderful sleep, rocked by the gentle waves of the ocean against our hull.

Sunday dawned and we  pulled anchor and headed into Bimini! When Ray and I first sailed into Bimini back in 2007, we had to use the range markers on the shore and pick our way through using our eyes to judge the bottom depth. It was a lesson in panic for me as the current runs strong and the shore and rocky bottoms are so close. We made it then, but now with big money coming into port, a dredging project has been started. There are big green and red buoys lining the entrance all the way into the harbor by the docks. Oddly enough, we have seen two large boats try to go across the brown brown run aground spots. I guess big money does not constitute knowledge... go figure!!! Coming through the channel, in a no wake zone, we were passed from behind by a boat that I'm sure cost more than our boat, dinghy, house and two years of my salary. Ray had to quickly maneuver our sailboat to try and take the wake on the bow instead of broadside. We didn't have room to fully turn, with the shallow water so close, so we were pretty much knocked down. I grabbed the railing, but things below tumbled in the thrashing of the giant waves. REALLY..... We made it safely across the Gulf Stream only to be in peril by another boater. Again, just because someone can afford a boat, doesn't mean they know what the heck they are doing. It gets really scary sometimes!!

We came into Bimini Blue Water Marina. I like this marina because it is clean, there is wifi, the bathrooms are always clean and there is a pool!!! Summer rates are only a dollar a foot plus electric and water. Water is very expensive!! We use the marina showers and try to conserve water just like we do on the hook. We do not spare expense for our AC though!!! I love the wind through the hatch when we are out on the hook, but at a dock it is HOT!!! Plus everyone around can see in and hear when the hatch is up and that's kind of creepy!!  Bimini is a charming island but I have become saddened by the amount of trash that seems to pile up year to year since we have been coming over. The beach over the hill from our marina was so strown with litter that we could not go into the beautiful water. The stench was so appalling to the senses that even standing to watch the sunset was a hardship. I do not know what the answer is, however, it seems that with all of the money being dumped into resorts on the northern tip, someone could come up with a plan to clean up the island. Glass bottles, empty cartons, spoiled food items and an array of cans are haphazardly tossed to the delight of a million flies. Bimini deserves so much more. The people are so friendly and I always feel safe walking around, even hitching a ride. I just wonder what my favorite little "island in the stream" will look like in five years without someone to intervene on her behalf!

Ray and I like to walk up to the Big Game Club and have fish fingers and peas and rice. Their prices aren't that outrageous but it is definitely cheaper to find a little Conch Shack up the road. We tried to get to Joe's Conch Shack but he wasn't opened. Ray had found us a ride with a local who just happened to be going our way. Jason, a friendly young man with a roomy golfcart, told us of another conch shack... "just up the road, mon"... which meant another mile!! We got out and offered money and he said he would come back and we could pay for round trip service. I guess island time caught up with him, because we didn't see him again!! haha....

 The shack was just that... a shack on the water, where fisherman throw their catches of conch and large snapper and grouper onto the attached dock. Ray ordered a conch salad and I got a water. I am not a fan of chewy snails, but that's just me. We watched as a man filleted a humongous grouper then two large snapper. He wasn't selling though which was okay with me because I didn't even see the snapper at first because they were covered with black flies. I'm sure the plague or cholera was looming around on those pieces of fish?? Ray says they were just fine, but I'm not buying it!! It was nice seeing the little community though. Older gentlemen and women sat around under the shade of a giant seagrape tree while the little kids ran splashing into the shallow water or shooting hoops on the adjacent playground. It was an enchanting afternoon, then we had to get back to our marina!! We started walking and walking and walking!!! It was, we were told later, about two miles and it was also 98 degrees!!! What a lovely evening stroll... HA!!! I am definitely getting some exercise much to the protest of my out of shape muscles.

The next day, we paid our marina bill and headed NuTrix to Gun Cay. The crossing to the Berry Islands is 12 to 14 hours depending on the wind... which is forever in our face!!! We usually leave from Gun Cay around five in the morning which means we need to hit the bunk early. I wanted to go over to the "sting ray" beach and snorkel around so we put our dinghy engine on and off we went to see some ocean life. Along the way, we spotted a nurse shark who did not want her picture taken. I tried and tried but those suckers are fast. We anchored just off the beach and jumped into the cool water. We were not there for two minutes when we were surrounded by stingrays. They were beautiful but they wanted food.

We didn't have any with us, so one of the rays tried to eat our GoPro!! haha....On the video, he looks angrily at Ray before flying away through the water. We swam around for a couple of hours then decided it was time to head home. When we are on the hook, the cockpit shower is so convenient! We can get all the salt off and not have anything to wipe down later like we do in the bathroom (head).  Sleep came quickly until about two thirty when a thunderous storm came rolling across the banks. The wind blew and lightening illuminated the island with its quick burst of fury. Usually storms pass quickly, however this one did not get the memo and lasted for over an hour. At five we were up again, to start our crossing though I didn't have a good feeling with the thrashing of our bow against the waves. I actually texted my brother and asked him to get the sailingweather.com forecast for our area. It said that the winds were supposed to be SE (big surprise there) and the waves less than two feet. The weather lied!! We started out and it wasn't too bad until about four hours into the day. The waves built to four to six feet and the wind was blowing at 12 to 15 right in our face.

The bow started to plunge deep under the waves and water crashed over sending salt spray as far as our cockpit.  We were knocked down to 2 knots and we still have 53 miles to go!! At that rate we would make the Tongue of the Ocean at 9:30 pm!! That is NOT a body of water to mess with especially at night with no way to see the waves. We had the option to anchor for the night and ride it out or turn around and go back. Ray and I discussed each option and then we both decided that this is our vacation and there is no need to beat ourselves and our boat up in such crazy seas. Ray turned us around, we threw up the sails and booked it back to Bimini!! It only took two hours to sail back with the wind off our stern and the waves pushing us along!

We will make it over but until then, we continue to enjoy our summer. Today, we are planning to go to the Shark research center and maybe tomorrow go snorkel the Sapona wreck. Some friends from Key West are coming in on Sunday and if the weather doesn't cooperate, we will be able to visit with them as they are staying at the same marina. All in all, this has been a wonderful adventure! I am looking forward to getting to the Exumas, but the most fun is being with Ray. We figure out each day together, explore together and say goodnight to each day together!! I couldn't ask for more, but it seems that I continue to get more and more each day. What a beautiful world this is!! I cannot capture the clarity of the water with my camera and I cannot capture the pure joy in my heart with words on a page!! Life is good here in the Bahamas.

Water, water everywhere but not there in the sink!!!

Have you ever spent a long day working, cooking or cleaning and then headed for the shower, to let the warm water wash away the tensions of the day, as you stand for minutes on end, inhaling the sweet smell of lavender body wash??? Then you, my friend, do NOT live on a boat!! Though I could go on and on about the benefits of our summer life aboard NuTrix, long, hot showers are not among them!! Our head, aka bathroom for you landlubbers, is about the size of most people's refrigerators and NO I am not exaggerating!!

 We have a sink, a toilet and sliders behind the toilet to keep towels and toilet paper dry while we shower. Oh, did I forget to mention that the shower consists of a nozzle that pulls out of the sink. Ray, being the wonderful captain that he is, installed a shower curtain so that we now can leave the door open and get the air to flow which makes it easier to dry off after showering. We do have hot water, but who in their right mind wants hot water to shower with when it is 90 degrees outside?? Not this sailor girl....!!  Our 41 foot sailboat carries 90 gallons of water in the front tank and 25 in the galley tank. Ray also installed a cockpit shower tank that holds 10 gallons, but it is slightly looked down upon in the mooring field to use the back of one's boat to take care of parts.... ya know!!! So our boat holds about 125 gallons of wonderfully refreshing water. If you ever want to understand conservation, come and visit for a day or two!!  Here in America, we tend to believe that everything comes from an unending source, fed, I guess, from a spring of magic deep inside of a fairy tree??? Call me a tree hugger if you will, but I have been aboard our boat, with seven people and totally out of water. Let me tell you, there is not one person out there who would not only hug a tree but kiss it and call it your momma if it would produce one drop of precious water when there is nothing but the ocean all around!! But back to my shower story....... 100 gallons of water is not that much when you consider, showers, cooking, washing hands, brushing teeth, cleaning up and just daily use that most of us do not give a second thought. So when we do shower, the water cannot run continually. If it did, we would have one shower and at least be clean when the Coast Guard found our boat floating around and us, lifeless from dehydration!! That would not be a fun blog......

So, let me introduce you all to showering on a boat. It takes some skill and a little practice and a lot of humor!! First, remove anything that you do not want to get wet. This includes toilet paper... live and learn...!!!
Once all is removed, turn on the water and rinse over your hair.... turn off water.... put shampoo in hair and scrub.... turn on water... rinse hair.... turn off water.... apply conditioner so you can get a brush through since there is no way that you got all of the shampoo out that quickly..... turn on water... rinse hair.... turn off water.... decide if the cascade of shampoo over your body was enough to call it clean... turn on water... rinse body... turn off water.... towel off and apply baby powder because even with a fan and the door open, it is 90 degrees outside and nothing is going to dry... and I mean NOTHING!!! After you finally get dressed, your shower fun is not yet over! Why, you ask.... well because not only do you have to dry yourself off, you have to dry off the toilet and the sink and the counter!

Oh, the joys of living on a sailboat! This is the time that you give thanks that the head is actually small and the clean up isn't too monumental!! Of course after all of the cleaning, you are kind of sweaty and in need of a good shower, but you decide instead to take a cold drink up to the bow and watch the sun set over the water. Ray is great about putting our chairs up on deck, turning on the music and making sure we have front row seats for the sunset celebration. We sit on our bow and look around at all of the other sweaty clean people and offer up a toast to the best life that there is... Just be careful with how much ice you put in that drink..... but that's another story!!!!!

The best laid plans of Ray and Kim.....

Making plans is a task that I enjoy probably more than most people realize. I love calendars and date books, organizing and putting things into motion then sitting back and watching it all come together. I think most people enjoy the ride when the course is laid out and the weather is cooperating. Planning is my way of making sure that we sail through and go where we intended. But that's not life! No matter how hard we try, and trust me, I really try, tires blow, engines die, the torrential rains fall, we lose our job, we get sick, cancer finds our family, death takes our friend...... and our courses have to change. I do not subscribe to the belief that these things are destined to happen, I believe that they simply do and how we handle these "bumps" in our journey affects where we go next and how we get there.

Pulling out the charts and laying a course, consulting the tidal highs and lows and watching for the weather window, this is what I did last Wednesday as we were tied up to the dock and enjoying the cold, cold hum of the AC. Ray and I had a lovely two days at Sombrero Marina complete with a funky little tiki bar and live music, though Wednesday was country night!! Country music and palm trees just do not mix, thank you very much! But we sat through one set, just to be neighborly and to finish our french fries.
Probably more for the fries.....

Afterwards we walked back down the dock and let Bob Marley sing to the sunset the way God intended it here in the Keys!!

After the ceremony of singing the sun to sleep, we looked over our itinerary for the next day.  I had it all figured out and smiled as Ray looked over the plans making his captainly adjustments, cause that's what captains do! Excitement built as we imagined in two short days making a 10 hour crossing into the clear waters of the Bahamas!! What could possibly go wrong?? Anyone that EVER asks that question should be called Jonah and thrown overboard immediately..... live and learn, live and learn!!!

We threw off the dock lines after a mile long walk to Publix for things that you only realize that you need when you go back to the dock! On a side note... I have walked more in 10 days that I have since my knee injury in NOVEMBER!!! Its amazing how the thought of a cold fresca will pull out the long dormant athlete snuggled down inside a sleeping muscle!! But I digress....
NuTrix made her way through the mooring fields and to the fuel docks at Burdines. The smell of french fries called us to stay a while, but the pull of the Bahamas was too strong, thankfully!! I have sworn off calories since the aforementioned fries the night before!!!  Anyway, we took on fuel and Ray's addiction... ice.... (I really need to get the recipe and save us some money!!) and waved goodbye to the friendly manager and turned NuTrix out into the Atlantic. I actually was at the helm making my way through the markers, around the shoals and into the beautiful teal water. As we got to the bridge, I thought it best for Ray to take over, mostly so I could sit on the deck and take pictures, but also so as not to be on CNN that night for ramming into the Seven Mile bridge. Hey, it happens!!

We had a lovely run back to Fiesta Key with light winds and the sun sparkling over the water. The water is so clear and it looks like we could hit the bottom but we are right on course. I had been watching the weather forecasts and it looked like Saturday was a definite GO for our jump across. Ray and I chatted about swimming and diving, hiking and exploring the islands. It all seemed to be coming together! I decided to make some chicken salad for our lunch and then do some light cleaning while underway. I opened the cabinet under the sink and thought it was odd that I smelled diesel. I figured Ray must have spilled a little while putting fuel into the tank. The opening for our tank is in the cockpit but I thought to tell Ray about it when I went back up. I forgot..... When we finally got the anchor set, turned on our music and was planning dinner, Ray caught a whiff of diesel and that is when I remembered smelling it too. Upon pulling off the stairs and looking into our engine compartment, Ray spied red drips on the spill cloth. The diesel on the fuel dock is colored with red dye and there it was in our bilge!! Ray spent most of the night and into the next day trying to figure out where the leak was coming from. We decided, sadly, that our plans were going to have to wait until we could get our engine fixed.... AGAIN!!! Sooooo back to Marathon we went with the SE winds on our stern pushing us away from our dream vacation with a little more force than I liked! Watching the water, I saw a small pod of dolphins swimming around our bow, playing and dancing on the waves as if there were no cares in the world except to be free and roam.

Looking around, I felt saddened that I let a small snag empty my heart of excitement and fill it up with an attitude of annoyance! I mean forevermore, Kim.... you are in the Keys, on your sailboat, with the love of your life.... WOW... epiphany and mental face slap!!! We came back through the bridge and picked up the same mooring that we had on the Sunday before. The sun was just as bright, the water just as clear and another group of dolphins swam up to say hello as I leaned across and grabbed the mooring line. We were invited to a beach party that night complete with Reggae music and food!! I had the most yummy Mahi-Mahi sandwich that tasted like the little sucker was swimming that morning!! His life was NOT in vain!!

Our worries were forgotten as we swayed to the music, dancing around with people we did not know and listening to the laughter and music that is life.... the good and wonderful life!!!
The next day, we found a wonderful guy, Don, who lives on his boat here in Marathon and agreed to fix our engine. He had retired but said he could not just sit by and watch as the big companies gouged boat owners with exorberant prices for repairs. Lucky for us!!! He and Ray are there now, pouring over a smelly engine while I sit here, sipping coffee and writing about our adventures. Thats what they are... adventures! You never know where the currents are going to take you in life. We try to adjust sails and pull in sheets but in the end, its the currents that decide where we go and it is our attitude that decides how we enjoy the ride!

Sailing for the Keys!!!!

It’s easy to get lost in Island Time, sitting and staring out at the water, where dreams float and adventure wanders in and out with the tides. This is an odd community that I’ve joined with its Sperrys and collared shirts, ripped T,s and sandals, long white hair, ponytails and hats, million dollar boats and heartbroken dreams left for the sea to claim. Here I sit, taking it all in and feeling the pull to stay and slow down and so, I give in!

Ray and I are here in Marathon where years ago he sat aboard his boat, Breezin.

So much has changed since those long gone days of he and Hank sailing around these waters and getting into all kinds of trouble that probably make the statute of limitations a REALLY great idea!!! There is a mooring field now which is very nicely maintained by the city and extremely affordable!  It is only 22.00 for us each night. We arrived Sunday afternoon around five thirty after leaving Jewfish Hole up near Fiesta Key. There we had met our friends aboard their new vessel, Stray Cat, who were coming from Nassau where they purchased their new catamaran. It was so great to see them and their new “island of adventure”!!  When we first arrived and dropped anchor, they invited us over to see their boat and for some appetizers and drinks. Stray Cat is a wonderful boat with lots of room!! Knowing our friends, their boat will log many miles of wonderful stories over the years!! It was great to just sit and catch up and retell the trip down the coast of Florida, which was a typical, Kim and Ray, sailing adventure complete with high winds and terrible seas.

We left Pelican Bay on Thursday morning and headed south towards Sanibel Island. We actually had an uneventful  trip but we could only motor because the wind insisted on blowing 20 knots right on the nose. It took us around eight hours to get in and drop the hook. We quickly put the engine on the dinghy and went into Sanibel Marina for some extra diesel fuel. Since the winds were forecasted  to be the same for the foreseeable future, we needed to stock up since our next landfall was supposed to be Islamorada. Upon arrival, the dockmaster asked what we needed and we explained that we needed 10 gallons of diesel. He looked a little miffed but took our jerry jugs and started filling them. We went into the store for a cold drink and to feel a little air conditioning and suddenly we hear lots of yelling and a couple of words that I had to look up later!! It seems their nozzle wouldn’t fit the end of our container and diesel went spilling all over the dock. Not a good thing!!! The dockmaster came in and looked at us and said, “That is the last time I will ever do that! Next time come to the bloody dock with your boat!”  The guy at the register just looked at us and passed on the information that evidently the dockmaster was going to have knee surgery and was just a little on edge because of it. WHATEVER!! I’ve been there, done that and went back to work with little preschoolers thank you very much!!! So get your panties out of a wad and have a little customer service!!!  Jeez…….. We took our 10 gallons of fuel and headed back to our floating oasis, NuTrix! 

We were met with a spectacular sunset and a nice breeze off of the ocean. It was a nice cool evening and so I cooked pasta with kielbasa for our dinner.
The cabin smelled heavenly from the onions and peppers.

I’m not sure why the ocean gives such a voracious appetite, but we ate like famine survivors!! Soon the bed was calling our name!! The amazing transformation onto boat life happens little by little, but soon our bodies fall into a natural rhythm of sleeping when we get tired and eating when we get hungry. There isn’t a time constraint and life just flows so naturally. I just love it!!!  The next morning, the Weather Service was calling for 10 to 15 knots out of the SE, so we decided to pull up anchor and head out. We put out the headsail and had a lovely cruise down the coast hitting 7 knots, at times. I made breakfast and coffee underway, turned on our new Bluetooth stereo and rocked away with Bob Marley telling some woman not to cry!!

Soon as we reached Marco Island, it would be Ray’s turn to tell this woman the same thing!! I am not quite sure what it is with that area, but the proverbial sh*% always hits the fan there!! We had to reef in the headsail since the winds picked up to a sustained 20 gusting WAY higher. And then, as if on cue, a squall hits us and the winds are clocking near 30 knots!!! We did get a nice wash down though and as quick as it hit, it was a distant memory. HOWEVER, we needed to pick our way through a channel in the shoals. The water can be one foot or less in places!! Ray found our mark, but when we turned, the angry sea kicked up the waves from 2 feet to around 5!!! Our boat went rail down to rail down for TWO hours!!! I’ve gotten much better with life on a boat, but really!!!! Back and forth and back and forth for, did I mention, TWO hours!!! My legs were bruised, Ray’s head was probably hurting from me yelling to deploy the EPERB!! He didn’t do it!! Finally I could see the light at Indian Key! Talk about the light at the end of the tunnel…. Yep!!! We found the marks and dropped anchor in time for a beautiful sunset complete with a dolphin show!! Earlier, back before anything hit a fan, Ray and I spotted some whales but I couldn’t get a photo. That night, however, I snapped away as the dolphins jumped and swam around the boat. We ate left overs, because we were both too tired to cook. Ray from holding the helm and me from holding a very nice panic attack!! That is what poptarts are for, right??!!!

Indian Key is a beautiful anchorage and is so well protected from waves and wind. Upstream, following the markers, is Everglades City. The charter boats and sightseeing boats make their way through the channels and we always wave as the tourist take pictures of our lovely boat nestled among the mangrove islands. We have been very lucky and never had a problem with bugs or mosquitos while anchored around the islands. Ray is always careful to keep our distance from the shores where the   little buggers like to swarm.  You are truly guaranteed a gorgeous sunset and sunrise over the water. It is a magical place and after the day the we had, turned out to be quite the haven that we needed. Tomorrow was going to kick our… well…. you know!!!

Saturday morning we looked out and figured, what the heck, let’s go!! The NOAA forecast once again was calling for SE winds at 10 to 15 but I am here to tell you that they lied!! I actually think NOAA is like women’s clothing designers. They always put a smaller number to make you feel better about yourself!!! Yeah, I can squeeze my butt into a 12……. Okay!!!  Anyway, the winds were indeed out of the SE but they blew at a constant 20. We did put out the headsail on the way to Cape Sable because of our course setting. We decided that if it got too bad, we could tuck up into Middle Cape for the night. We had been there in 2013 with my sister and brother-in-law. The holding is good and the area is gorgeous with all kinds of birds and plant life. The beaches are so deserted and give it kind of a lonely feel that makes you want to go explore. A problem though, is that we no longer had cell phone reception. We couldn’t call and let anyone know that we were okay but just needed to stop, so being the crazy people we are, we kept going. When we sailed passed Cape Sable, the waves started crashing over the bow and we had to pull in the sail. I was hoping that when we got through the deep channel leading up to Flamingo that the waves would subside just a little. Low and behold, they did!! The winds were still up, but we were met with the most gorgeous water imaginable dotted with little Keys all along the horizon.

We followed the red markers through the shallow spots and I pulled out the paper charts and actually passed the time plotting courses and measuring distances with my dividers. My dividers were a present from Ray back on our very first sailing trip in 2007. I love them!!! I enjoy navigating and pouring over charts looking for depths and channels, little islands and sandbars. I wonder what it would have been like for long ago explorers who made these charts. I think that every time I touch them, I am holding history.  I was looking over the charts and asked Ray to tell me when we got close to Yachtsmans Channel which is a very narrow passage through extremely shallow water.  The guide books make it sound so treacherous, but we have not had any trouble. You can clearly see where NOT to go!! The water is so clear and pretty! Ray just looked at me strangely and said that we had passed through 10 minutes ago. I missed it!!! We finally found our anchorage off of Fiesta Key. There is a nice little area that is good to get out of the wind and rolls, but you have to go fairly close to the Campground.  We dropped the anchor and soon our friends, Wes and Sabine, were on the horizon. It had been a crazy long day, but seeing familiar faces always makes for a great evening. I texted my mom to let her quit worrying for a while and we got the dinghy ready to go meet Wes and Sabine and see their new boat!! Which brings me back to where I started with this story though not quite the beginning!

On Sunday, we all pulled anchor and headed to Marathon. I totally forgot to mention that our autopilot and alternator had quit on us. The autopilot is a bother, but without an alternator,  we have no power!! Ray installed solar panels but with the overcast days and the heat, they could not keep up with our refrigerator full of an 8 week supply of food!!! We needed to get it fixed ASAP!!! We had a great sail down to Marathon with Stray Cat. The weather produced small scattered showers and lots of wind but we were actually going the right way!!! I got some great videos of our sailing and of our entrance into the Atlantic via the Moser’s Channel Bridge. Going under bridges is always breathtaking for me. I know the charts say a 65 foot clearance, but it never seems as if we are going to make it!! But we always do!! We turned north toward Marathon and followed Stray Cat into the mooring fields. We got in around 5:30. I had to stand on the bow and try to “catch” the mooring ball with our boat hook. I am 5 foot 4 and that water was way the heck down from where I was standing. I could just imagine myself slipping into the drink off of the bow to the applause of every person on the surrounding boats!! I did manage to get the line through the tiny ring and pull the sucker aboard. Ray came up to help and we finally got it all secured. The little dog on the boat next to us barked his approval, or either he was laughing, you never know with dogs.  Ray and I cleaned up and we headed over to get Wes and Sabine. They haven’t purchased a dinghy yet so we were more than happy to be the chariot of the mooring field!! We found a nice waterside restaurant and had a nice feast. Ray and I had been living off of crackers and cheese for two days so fish and veggies and rolls and rice were so yummy.  Lazy Days is a really nice restaurant and our waiter was so friendly. It was such a nice evening and a wonderful welcome to island life!! Ray and I decided to hang around for a while and get some things ready for our Bahamas crossing.

We spent Monday running around trying to secure a new alternator.  We got a cab and went to Napa looking for a replacement. The guys there were unexpectedly helpful. They went above and beyond to help and actually called a guy who does repairs to rebuild it for us and save some money. They run up to 1200 dollars!!! That’s a LOT of dollars!! The guy from Napa actually gave Ray and Wes a ride over to the marina! Come to find out, our alternator was working  just fine, so it must be the regulator. Our repairman told Ray to take a picture and he could see what he needed, so back to the boat we went.  Ray was twisted and turned all in the engine room trying to get to the regulator when he noticed a wire hanging!!! He looked at me and we both could not believe that it may be something so easy. Ray plugged the wires back in and Wes came to help him reinstall the alternator. After two hours, we fired up the engine and what do you know……… POWER!!!! Problem solved and now we could relax and wait on the winds to calm down!!!

We plan on going into a marina tomorrow for power to get the batteries fully charged and for air conditioning so Ray can install a new macerator pump in the head!!! It’s a CRAPPY job so I’ll make sure to stay out of his way. Once that is done, we should be good to go. The weather looks great for a Saturday crossing so we are leaving Marathon on Thursday and head back up to Fiesta Key. On Friday, we will take NuTrix to Rodriguez Key and wait for our weather window to shoot for Bimini.  I am trying to keep up with all the fun things that we are doing, but I have to wait for internet service which we didn’t have up until yesterday.  Verizon is all too happy to charge me for my Hotspot but I’ve put enough of their children through Harvard, so I like to wait. I have so many cool pictures and videos and will upload them all as soon as possible!! This has been a really great vacation so far!!! I look forward to each day with my Ray!!!! Now, I’m taking my drink and going to sit on the bow and watch the day go to sleep.  It’s comforting to know that each day, the sun sets and no matter how long the night, it comes back up the next day!!! Sitting here in paradise waiting…… well, that is the life!!!!!

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The Adventure begins!!

We have been planning to leave June 10^th since we decided to throw off the lines and GO…… My day started at 8:50 with my daughter, Hannah asking if I was going to get up!!! I had planned on a seven A.M. wake up, however, my wonderful husband, fearful for his life, let me sleep after he got up. I truly am not a morning person, though today would have been an exception. Ray and I spent most of Tuesday provisioning the perishables and last minute forgotten items on our ever growing list. We tried to pack the boat last night, but we stopped to go out to dinner with Hannah and then go to the bookstore for ONE book that I wanted!! The one book turned into eight and after the initial shock seeing the total, we headed back to try and store and pack, provision and stuff things into every crevice on NuTrix. Not an easy task!!! When we got home, Hannah’s boyfriend, Calvin was there along with ice cream….. goodbye loading of the boat!!! Sooooo this morning we needed to get it all finished so we could leave. I am always amazed at the pull of land on our priorities. One more trip to Publix, one more check of the bedroom, one more talk with Hannah, one more…. one more!!!!  Finally, at 12:30, we threw the lines and waved goodbye to Hannah and our kitty , Scout and headed off into a 15 knot head wind…. Such is our adventure ALWAYS!!!!

No matter which way we go, the wind seems to be in our face. I made sure the hatches were down but saltwater always makes its way inside! Ray turned on the autopilot… a blessing from above… well actually from West Marine and we sat back and watch the waves splash over the rails into the cockpit and all over us!!!! The sun was out and it was actually a nice day. We kept hoping the winds would shift enough for us to throw up the sails, but it was not in the cards, the atmosphere, or the grand scheme of life!! 

Once we turned west at the Channel Five marker, the water changed to a pretty bluish green and the wind shifted to the WSW… of course….!!!!

We finally saw the Pelican Bay anchorage and decided to tuck in for the evening instead of tempting the thunderstorm gods. We’ve done that before and 33 knots of wind with six foot seas is just not all that fun. So, here we are in Pelican Bay. A lovely little anchorage right off the Cayo Costa Park entrance.  If you are ever on a boat and looking for a great get-a-way, this is an amazing spot. Just hug the shore after the 74 red marker on the ICW. The bay has recently been dredged so it isn’t a problem. We draw 4 and a half feet and glide right in.

The sunsets here are spectacular and it is quiet. We have our fans running since we do not have AC without shore power. There is also the breeze from the crazy winds to keep us cool. Tonight Ray is grilling steaks and I’m slicing some tomatoes for a yummy dinner. Life is really great. Our adventure has started!!! Tomorrow we are running down the coast to Sanibel unless the weather cooperates, then we may keep going for Indian Key in the 10000 islands. I’m very excited to be here with my handsome pirate.  Tonight I will look up and try to find the “lucky star” that has been smiling on me. Until next time, my friends…. Fair winds and following seas!!! Though on NuTrix… yeah right… haha

Putting it all together... where??? I don't know!!!

Our office has turned into a storage shed for the BOGO deal at Publix!! We have been grabbing a bottle here and a can there for about two months now. I sit and try to think of what kind of meals we will want and then plan accordingly......well my healthy self does anyway. The brutal honesty of it all will be when Ray and I dive into the Doritos and Oatmeal Cream Pies because we are just too tired after a long day sailing to cook anything!! Our freezer isn't endless, so it is devoted to vacuum sealed chicken, steaks, burgers and meatballs. We hope to catch our fish dinner, but just in case, we need something other than the aforementioned Oatmeal Cream Pies!! Tomorrow, I have to find a space for all of this food somewhere aboard Nu Trix.

This year we had a foam topper made for our bunk! I've tried it out and WOW is it comfortable! All Marine Canvas has been a life saver for our boat! Doug, the owner, made our bimini, dodger, cockpit cushions, settee cushions and now our berth topper complete with a fitted sheet. What a big difference to our sleeping quarters. Doug is quite reasonable so if you are in the Punta Gorda area and need canvas work, he is definitely your guy!!                                                                                                                                                

I'm very happy with how everything seems to be coming together. We spent last Sunday at IKEA buying baskets and containers and towels and knives and measuring cups and a couple of things that Im sure we didn't really need, but hey, its IKEA!! That is one fun part of provisioning for a long trip, getting to go shop for cool things that you just cannot live without!!! No matter what we pay here in the States will be small in comparison with the prices in the Bahamas. Other than Nassau, there aren't very many stores to grab sheets and towels and other necessities that make a boat a home. Ray has been busy with getting our boat ready also. We now have an autopilot, a bigger and better inverter, a bluetooth stereo, new chart books, an ELECTRIC toilet...(hey it's the little things that make this girl happy) and shades to keep the tropical sun and prying eyes out of our salon area! He really is a pretty handy guy to have around! I think I will keep him!!!
So there you have it!! The ins and outs of getting ready for an eight week excursion. Well not all of it, but that's for another day.  Our home for the summer is comfortable for us and more than ready to go next Wednesday....... okay, hopefully ready to go next Wednesday..... okay, a little panic is setting in!!! Regardless however, ready or not, here we come!!!!