Sunday, July 26, 2015

On to Nassau.....

The cool breeze ruffled the sheets waking me up early Monday morning. As my eyes adjusted to the bright Bahamian light, I heard, “Happy Birthday!”  It most certainly was a happy birthday, letting sleep ease off of my mind and dreams of an exciting day fill up the space. Today, Ray and I would cross the Tongue of the Ocean and continue our Bahamian adventure in Nassau. We would also be picking up a passenger, our friend, Robin. The weather could not have been better for our journey across. The mooring ball that kept NuTrix safe for the night, was cast off and away we sailed….. well away we motored with a SE wind hitting us on the bow.
The water is just indescribable with so many shades of green and turquoise and blue. The grasses and rocks below looks as if we are boating in some giant aquarium constructed with such care and precision that it makes doubt in a creator, impossible. The turquoise gives way to an unimaginable deep blue that calls so loudly that I want to dive over and swim in its beauty, but good sense and a will to live keep me safely aboard, NuTrix. Our journey will take seven hours, so we crank up the music, I toast up some Bimini bread with butter, throw drinks into the cooler and we let the currents carry us away with the plans that we have made for our island vacation. About 18 miles into the trip, the swells become larger like someone flipped on the wave maker. Once again on the trip, water crashes over the bow and salt covers our boat and sticks to every imaginable surface. I am starting to think that we should have named our sailboat, Margarita, since all we need is someone to douse us in rum!! We see many powerboats coming and going which makes me feel better about the rough seas. Though it has been our experience that powerboats do not answer when hailed?? I don’t know if they just do not turn on their VHF or if they just do not want to talk to lowly sailboaters? I cling to the hope that if I really needed someone, they would answer…..
I had given Ray some time off of the helm to stretch and go below, but when the wind kicked up to 20 knots and the seas became a washing machine, I dared not even try. Going below is NOT a good idea when the boat is rocking back and forth and side to side. The stomach tends to send messages to the brain to abort any and all food whether real or imagined and that is right up there in the top 10 things that you do not want to experience at sea. I’m actually going to say that it is only second to abandoning ship, which is never good. Ray and I actually laughed about the sea conditions as if we had expected anything other than crazy winds and salt spray. We trudged along riding the indigo water as it floated NuTrix up into the clouds then released her to slide down the waves back into the tumble cycle to do it all over again. Ray handed me the binoculars and said that he could see a house. What he saw was actually a ship, not a cruise ship, but someone’s private yacht docked alongside the shore. Where people get all that money is beyond me, which is probably why I do not have said money!!! Anyway, we knew that we were coming up to Nassau so I started to look for Atlantis. The hotel/resort can be seen from 10 miles away! I know that many people love the posh décor of the monstrosity; however, after talking to my friends who live in the Bahamas, I found that the resort does not like locals to come onto the property. I just feel that it is horrid to refuse service to locals while taking away much needed tourism from the island where it is desperately needed. But that’s just me… I thought that I had spotted Atlantis off to starboard, but Ray said that it should be dead ahead. I looked through the binoculars again and realized that it was a different resort which must have been built since we were over in 2013!
I could not believe how humongous it was, rising as if out of the ocean!! Why must all builders try and outdo each other with bigger and more expensive hotels. There are so many small marinas along the harbor that could use an infusion of dollars to help them spruce up and keep up. Sadly our world seems to be taken with the notion that bigger and newer is better. We did learn that the project has been put on hold while investors pulled money. The construction company has filed for bankruptcy in the tune of billions!!! BILLIONS!! I have a hard time wrapping my head around a hundred thousand soooooo……

NuTrix came into the harbor and we called Nassau Harbor Control to get permission to enter. (How cool is that) We passed the old lighthouse to the port and entered in to the hub of the Bahamas. I found out from some cruising friends that the lighthouse is basically for looks as it has a VERY dimly lit light and is extremely hard to see in the dark. Note to self, I am constantly reminded that my “No Traveling at Night” rule is a smart one!! We passed by the cruise ship terminal and came up to the Paradise Island bridges. I have said before that it never looks like we are going to clear that bottom span of the bridge. I audibly suck in my breath because you know, every little bit helps!!! NuTrix passed under and rocked just slightly enough to try and cover her obvious giggle at my apprehension! Boats can be that way sometimes!!  
 I called Harbor Club Marina on the VFH radio for the 100th time all to no avail…… does ANYONE use their radio in this country??? FINALLY, they answered and told us to come in to slip number 17….. ummmm….. we don’t know where that is and the current is really strong and where do we put dock lines and all…… “Mon, just look on de dock”, we heard over the radio….. OKAYYYYY……?????  But low and behold, the dockmaster was waving frantically and pointing to the right area for us to tie up. NuTrix came into the slip and again gave a little sigh as the engine died and dock lines were thrown over pilings. We had finally arrived at the capital of the Bahamas and the jump off point for my beloved Exumas!!! Ray and I left on June 10th and it took us almost a month to get into our slip in Nassau. I cannot complain about the delays because each time, we got to spend the day and night enjoying each other as well as some wonderful anchorages along the way. The beauty of the Keys as well as the Bahamas is accentuated by the happiness that comes from sharing and making memories with Ray.  So far this has been a dream trip and I cannot wait to visit the Exumas and touch the history that lies beneath the scrub palms and mangrove trees.
The Loyalist plantation ruins are calling to me and I cannot wait to go explore!!! I think about how 300 hundred years ago, many Loyalist pulled into Nassau and felt the same pull as I do now to go and see what waits beyond the reef covered waters to the east. I will sail over, as they did many hundreds of years ago and touch the same shores, swim in the same waters and venture up into the ruins of their dreams and whisper to the ghosts that it was not in vain……. their spirits live on among the people who call this beautifully magical island chain their home.

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